Kansas Prairie Packers

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Grand Canyon - May 2003

My wife and I just finished a great hike in the Grand Canyon. This was her first and my seventh trip to the Canyon.

Overnights in the Canyon require a backcountry permit. It is difficult to obtain a permit and you must apply for one no sooner than 4 months prior to your hike. A ranger will check your permit at the main campgrounds to ensure you are at the right place at the right time.

Our route took us down the South Kaibab trail to Tipoff then on the Tonto trial east to Cremation Canyon. There we spent our first night. It was extremely quiet and the weather was beautiful. There is no water on this route so we carried water for all of the first day and for part of the second day. The amount was decided based on the weather and the meals we planned. Each of us started with 5 liters. We consumed 3 liters each before hitting the trail on the second day. 

The second day was a back track to the South Kaibab trail. The Tonto is very deceiving. It looks flat from above but is anything but flat. It is also difficult to find at times. One must stop and locate Cairns to find the trail now and then. Once back on the South Kaibab, we descended to Bright Angel Camp to enjoy plenty of water, the south of Bright Angel Creek and flush toilets. We were lucky to get 2 stew meals at Phantom Ranch. They are usually sold out months in advance. The meal is all you can eat and was very tasty. This meal meant we didn’t have to carry a dinner for that night. 

We were quite lucky with the weather. Two years prior my trip in early April was in 100-degree heat at the bottom. It should have been at least as hot but we enjoyed unusually cool days of 77 to 79 F. 

The third day in the Canyon was a backpack off day. We spent the time day hiking to Ribbon Falls that is about 7 miles up the North Kaibab trail. It is a very gentle hike along the Bright Angel creek. The canyon sometimes narrows then opens up again. There are quite a variety of habitats from desert to marshes. Ribbon Falls is a beautiful place and makes a great lunch spot. It was well worth the 14 mile round trip. 

Day four began our hike out. We took the Bright Angel trail from Bright Angel camp to Indian Gardens. This hike was probably the easiest leg of our trip. Indian Gardens is a great campground with water available. The sites are shaded and have shelters over the picnic tables. It was very cool here and mostly overcast. It was almost uncomfortable. We decided to go to Plateau Point in the afternoon rather than watching the sunset from there. It turned out to be a good decision as the wind really came up and the clouds moved in. 

Day five was our final leg. The hike from Indian Gardens to the south rim trailhead is grueling. The only redeeming factor is that water is available every 1.5 miles. We only needed to carry the minimum amount of water and our food was essentially gone. We had the lightest packs on the whole trip. It is still a very difficult hike. 

The weather at the top was sunny, windy and cold. We were underdressed but it felt so good to have accomplished the hike that we hardly noticed. We immediately drove to the showers and cleaned up for the first time in 5 days. 

Throughout the hike we were able to average about 1.5 miles per hours except for the trip to Ribbon Falls, which was much faster, and the trip out from Indian Gardens, which was much slower. 

Mileages: 

  • South Kaibab trailhead to Cremation Canyon – 5.5 miles
  • Cremation Canyon to Bright Angel Camp – 4.5 miles
  • Bright Angel Camp to Ribbon Falls – 7 miles
  • Bright Angel Camp to Indian Gardens – 4.5 miles
  • Indian Gardens to Plateau Point – 1.5 miles
  • Indian Gardens to Bright Angel trailhead on south rim – 4.5 miles

What we wore (each)

  • Heavy duty hiking boots
  • Wool socks with liners
  • Long sleeve T-shirt
  • Zip off pants
  • Underwear
  • Hat
  • Sun glasses
  • Sun screen

Extra clothes we took (each)

  • 2 pair underwear
  • Long sleeve T-shirt
  • Long sleeve shirt
  • Goretex jacket
  • 2 pair socks and liners

Gear we took

  • Backpack
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping bag (20 degree)
  • Sleeping pad (3/4 Thermarest)
  • Small pillow
  • Sling light chair
  • 1 - 2-person REI half dome tent
  • Toiletries
  • Black Diamond headlamp
  • Book to read
  • Water containers (70 oz Camelbacks, liter Nalgen bottles)
  • Pocket rocket stove and fuel
  • Titanium pot
  • 2 cups
  • 2 bowls
  • 2 sporks
  • First aid kit
  • Hardware repair kit

We had not planned to take sleeping bags but the cool weather and a ranger’s recommendation changed our minds. The alternative was to take 2 poncho liners, which would have worked great, in hot weather. 

The books were a waste of weight. We spent our free time just enjoying the Canyon. 

The sling light chairs were a real treat. I had never carried one but decided to try it. The chair weighs only 14 oz. It was great to rest in those chairs instead of sitting on a rock or on the ground. They attached to the back of each pack and were not as cumbersome to carry as I imagined they might be. 

We did not need the 2 bowls. Instead we ate out of the cook pot. 

Meals

  • Breakfast – just a couple of breakfast bars. Coffee if we had water.
  • Lunch – turkey jerky and a power bar. My wife had Perfect Zone bar and I had Bear Mountain Pemmican bar.
  • Dinner – a cup of soup, dehydrated ground turkey and peas cooked with Minute Rice and spices. We found that a meal for 2 consisted of ˝ pound of ground turkey and 1 cup of peas (dehydrated) with 1 cup of Minute Rice. We put 1 cup of water in the dehydrated turkey and peas bag while the soup water heated. After making soup, the turkey and peas were put in the pot with a cup of water and heated to a boil. Minute Rice was added and let set for 5 minutes. It was a great meal and tasted good each night.
  • Gorp – Peanut M&Ms, heavy but wonderful.

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